Odds and Ends

Fantastic Blonde Mustache

It was a big head day.  Heads everywhere, all shapes and sizes.  At the counter, a jet white, “Rasta,” a gnarl like an abstract sculpture clinging lopsidedly to a cloud encircled dome.  Out on the sidewalk, an old woman in a red trench coat, bean shaved perfectly clean but for a single golden lock pasted out front like a misplaced fantastic blonde mustache.  Passing by, a man who’s haircut directed the whole of one’s attention to the unfortunate shape of his melon.  And here I am myself, a broken molar barnacled to the back of my gums.  My head’s just as fucked up as the others.

We were enjoying massive lattes and sloppily executed french bistro food.  I don’t like to criticize food, but I feel the need to reconcile myself with the shame of being drawn to frequent an establishment which may very well be considered, “trendy,” by a thing so tacky as an espresso drink in a bowl.  It is, however, a very good latte.

The heads continued: two women in bikinis and flea market luchador masks stumbling about the sidewalk, an odd little dog with a mohawk, a rail thin old man with a purple top hat.  “That’s right,” she remembered, “Fat Tuesday!”  The exclamation didn’t much kick in for me, off on a heady day myself, worried about that cracked piece of junk in the center of it all.

I had gone to San Jose the night before, to see an old friend, to sit for awhile with someone I knew and trusted.  His brother had been cooking, made us plates of rice and crispy tacos.  We sat at the kitchen table, the same kitchen table that had always been there, crowded with family projects, bills, puzzles, take-out packaging.  The kitchen table where you always had to make a space for yourself, and we all felt comfortable doing so.

We chewed quietly.  An awkward crunch, felt something strange, crumbling grit, like a flavorless calcium chew.  I probed about with my tongue, sifting through settling dust, bottom left molar, great fallen monolith.  And in this childhood dreamland, like peanut butter and jelly in the cotton white bread of trust, I was too comforted to give it much thought.  “hmm… I chipped a tooth,” I said, almost laughing, and I kept on eating.

We walked along the park, passing designer coffee stands, the man with the wooden flute, the climbing rope dome like a net for the bits and pieces of empty logic that bob around the whirlpool at the base of this drainpipe from the outside world, odds and ends swept in at well over the speed limit from the south and over the bridge, and the peninsula and the central valley and who knows where else, to puddle and collect and swirl around and through and out of our strange little neighborhood.

We crossed the turn in the river where the damned signal takes all damned day and you should always be afraid that someone might run you over.  These are all of the people that have been in transit, only just in from wide opened.

An old man’s dream, the crossing guard on that corner, to rise with the sun each day and spend a moment at dawn, another at dusk, guiding the wandering souls across the river that feeds them, watching for falling debris.  If only I make it to the end, orange vest ,white gloves, stop sign, happy man.  Shakyamuni was a crossing guard for a few summers.

I fumbled about for the silver key.  We stepped over the chipped old mosaic with the big red ‘T’ on it that must have meant something once, on through the lobby that smells always strange, sometimes like curry, usually like Nevada, and into our nest, our eye in the storm.

I began to cook as she settled into the computer, the both of us off exploring.  “Make me a dentist appointment,” I called from the kitchen.  “What day do you …” Suddenly from the street came a Zatarain’s beat, tinny old bayou blasts crashing through the bedroom walls.  She was up and at it, always first to the excitement.  I wandered in last place, settling my chin on the window sill like an old dog, always looking for the things to go on and off and just watching, waiting, and sleeping when they finally do, muzzle tucked under the blinds.

From our bedroom window we watched the impromptu jazz parade make it’s way across the parklet.  The bikini-clad luchadoras hucked themselves about in enthrallment, a crowd swarming along.  The girls danced and climbed on the dome net; a fellow in a fashionable hat played trombone at them provocatively.  “I bet he owns his own pool cue,” she said.  The crowd surged and pushed around the nets and up against the banks of the great waterfall.  The crossing guard flashed then, and the mass poured across.  Top hat and luchadoritas and a big brass band and families and strollers and a kid on her father’s shoulders swept right by our street-level porthole and looked me in the eyes another twist to the mass of confusion.  I will never forget those wondering eyes.

The parade; it came and went.  The noise on the street reverted to it’s usual fragmented passes of conversation and motor vehicles.  We left the window and settled into a movie, the heater whirring, bundled up.  Calm, still, tucked away.

And then, dust settling, an uncomfortable lump in my back pocket, a piece of Pecorino Romano.  This game I play, to see how many items I can purchase without accepting a plastic bag from a shop clerk, and I’m always surprised by what’s in my pocket.  The label was illegible, having gathered itself through in a blanket of lactic fat, gently melted under the warmth of my right ass cheek.

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Cacio E Pepe

It’s really over done, this stuff.  Google and see.  You’ll find countless recipes, videos, blog entries, etc.  I’m sure it has plenty to do with  No Reservations: Rome.  That’s what turned me on to it at least, Anthony Bourdain mouth-jizzing all over a bowl of spaghetti.  I wonder if Romans feel this way about clam chowder in a bread bowl.

You only have five ingredients to play with: water, salt, spaghetti, pepper, Pecorino Romano.  See what you can do.  This is how you learn to cook.

Roast the peppercorns gently before they see the mortar.  When you catch the smell you’re looking for, they’re ready.  The pasta should be underwater.  Deep sautee pan ready, pepper goes in hot olive oil, gently bubbles away briefly.  Use your nose again.  At the right moment, cut the heat and quench with a ladle or two of pasta water. When the pasta nears readiness, fish it out and into your waiting pan.  Don’t throw that liquid away.  Finish cooking in the sauce, adding reserved pasta water to control consistency.  When the spaghetti is a shade of texture below perfect, remove it from the heat, sautee as you add a satisfying amount of grated Pecorino Romano.  If you control your heat properly, the cheese will fold gently and seamlessly into a sauce.  Now just season (don’t forget that the pasta water is salted), and plate.

You can make any number of adjustments.  Add a little butter or Parmigiana, and you remain well within the realm of tradition.  Sometimes I throw an egg yolk in with the cheese.  An egg yolk requires a bit more water in order to emulsify correctly, but given the same attention to heat as your cheese, it adds a certain velvety quality, like a clean alfredo.  Obviously, Do whatever you want with this dish.  Just don’t put grilled chicken breast on top of it.  Show a little respect.

Thing is, you’ll never get it dish just right, never perfect, and that’s why we cook.  The most simple a dish an infinite puzzle, and only may it ever approach completion.

 

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Page Mandarin

I bite into a page mandarin; sheer disappointment; Unheavenly horrible torment.  She was supposed to be so good, people had told me she would be good, she looked good, but she was no good at all.  Aggressively overwhelming the senses, any contrary thought a faint shadow in the path of one monstrous, overwhelming flavor.  Cloyingly sour, devoid of sweet, though I’m not convinced I would recognize sugar enveloped by such a mass of pucker.

Was it the wrong time of year?  I suppose it could have been.  But it is difficult to imagine that anything good could come of something so bad.  Otherwise, the best I can explain it is that whomever it was who had told me this fruit was remarkably flavorful, was either mistaken about what they were eating, somehow disabled, or out to offend me.  It must have been out of season.

But there is the possibility that I’m missing something here.  Maybe my genetic makeup doesn’t allow me to experience the page mandarin as some other being might.  Or maybe, worse still, maybe the page mandarin is nothing but honest good, perhaps my feeble brain is not equipped to grasp the wonder that is the page mandarin.  I’ll bet that’s it, I simply don’t understand the page mandarin.  Page Mandarin, a woman, mysterious, complex, unknowable.  I want her as much as I ever hated her.

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Oatmeal

Put some water in a pot.  Throw in three healthy handfuls of oats.  Run the pot on high until the oats begin to stick to the pan.  With a wooden spatula, scrape the bottom of the pan clean, adding more water as you scrape if necessary.  Finish with a handful of trail mix, a couple spoonfuls of sugar, a pinch of salt, a drop of almond extract, a little love for the texture, and anything else you might find entertaining in a bowl of oatmeal.  Now pour it into your favorite bowl and add a halo of milk around the top like my grandma used to do.

Breakfast is in all likelihood the only meal of the day I will have time to consume peacefully.  Before I made oatmeal a part of my morning ritual I would usually eat cold cereal or nothing at all.  The former doesn’t offer the lasting energy and comfort of a bowl of oats; the latter offers nothing at all.  I have found that in order to do my job the way I would like it to be done, I need to have a good, solid, morning meal

It is as a result of my having treated myself like shit for the first half of my twenties that I came to understand the importance of a morning regimen.  I used to wake up after a night of drinking, throw on some Chefwear, slip into my Sanita’s, and waddle off to my lunch shift.  My morning routine went something like this: wake up, get dressed, decide whether or not I feel shitty enough that a bong rip would improve the morning’s service, administer said bong rip, and head off to work.

This technique makes for a solid schedule, and it might get you through some tough times, but eventually you just have to find something a little more sustainable.  Hence, the oatmeal regimen.  I started exercising and shit too, but breakfast is my keystone.  When you’re beating yourself up all day in the kitchen, you have to keep food and water in your body, otherwise, when the adrenalin kicks in on the first turn, you’re jerking your nutrient starved body all over the place like an epileptic, and eventually something’s gonna give.

Another tiny detail that I haven’t mentioned at all here.  When you are cooking all day for other people and all day you have a plan and you’re going about everything according to plan; taking the time to cook only for yourself, for your personal care and enjoyment, can be very grounding.  You are free in this moment to wander off in directions you might not otherwise consider exploring; you are free to take risks.

 

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Responsibillity

It’s hard being a chef.  I’ve heard people say it’s not.  They are lying.  It is very stressful.  You’re the ringleader of a crazy, drugged up, overworked guerrilla faction.  Kitchen people are crazy, and it is your job to motivate them, instruct them, and in many cases trick them into performing remarkably complicated tasks in a consistent and reliable manner.  You are required to be a general, a psychiatrist, a mother, a friend, a salesman, a teacher, a student, a spiritual guide, etc. and you must play all of these rolls all at once and seamlessly.

When I was a line cook, I worked the line.  I came in, set up my station, and worked through service.  When it was all over, I packed up and moved out.  I answered to the people above me, and I had one task, to put out the best food possible.  Things have changed.  I now answer to everyone.  I answer to the line cooks who depend on me to help them forget that they are working.  I answer to the check writers who want the numbers to lineup and stay black.  I answer to customers and floor mangers and servers.  Occasionally, I even answer to hostesses, twirling their hair, wondering why I don’t seem eager to fulfill another irrational request.

A restaurant is a massive hurricane of bullshit, and I am it’s eye.  My name or some variation of it is being yelled from all directions.  Have you ever been rudely interrupted in answering a question in order to be presented with a more pressing question?  It is a frustrating type of situation I assure you.  I regularly find myself asking,  “do I answer server A, who is always manic but seems especially manic at the moment, or do I answer server B, normally calm, but currently with a deeply unsettling look about him/her?”

Being a chef is a far more confusing and demanding task than one might imagine.  If you have ever entertained the idea that you would make a great chef, you are a fool.  You may become a capable chef certainly, but it will require years of dedicated practice.  It only becomes more obvious with experience that cooking is not a job which requires any true natural talent necessarily, but one which requires a daunting degree of patience and persistence.

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The Pass

The orders come in.  The chef organizes the orders and communicates them to the line cooks.  The line cooks then prepare the specified dishes and place them in the window.  Then, the chef inspects each dish before it is sent off to the table.

So much can go wrong.  The order can be entered incorrectly or misread.  The cook can miss the call or forget it or just make the dish entirely wrong.  The food runner can run it to the wrong table or even get sent to the wrong table by the chef.  Any number of strange and unexplainable events can occur that fuck everything up and piss people off, and the blame may lie on anyone and everyone.  But it doesn’t matter.  We’re in the middle of service and I don’t have time to put on my trench coat and give everybody the Peter Falk treatment.  And so, ultimately, the blame lies on me.

I’ve seen it.  Tickets and food and people disappear into thin air and reappear in the oddest places.  As the expediter, it’s your job to ensure that the kitchen runs smoothly over all of the unavoidable service interruptions that you inevitably encounter.  You must guard and maintain the peace over the pass, mediating disputes and resolving issues for and between the kitchen and the floor.  You are entrusted with the thankless task of handling all of the extra bullshit that arises so that everyone else can continue doing their job.  You get to calm down the server who is blaming you for not knowing that he forgot to fire a pasta for a V.I.P. table of wine reps that you don’t give a shit about even as you’re trying to explain to the poor, bitter, burnt-out pasta cook that he needs to yet again put his whole station on hold and pull a perfect pappardelle out of his ass so that this douche bag server can walk away with drug money at the end of the night.  All the while you’re fighting the urge to tell everyone to go fuck themselves.

It’s a weird place to be, man.  Everybody has their own way of handling things and everyone approaches your window with a different attitude.  There are people who are naturally defensive, who will always come at you hard, convinced from the start that you screwed them over.  There are the stubborn old dogs who are dead certain that they have never made a mistake.  There’s the green kids that can’t hear for shit and don’t understand callbacks and put up crappy food because they’re too busy dreaming about their big break; that moment of triumph when they get a chance to make a salad for so-and-so food critic and their misunderstood talent will finally be laid bare in vinaigrette and mixed lettuces, catapulting them to food network super-stardom where all they’ll have to do for the rest of their lives is drink champagne and ride around in convertibles and they’ll have groupies and they’re own brand of frozen corn dogs and oh man, they’ll never brunoise another shallot as long as they live and you actually wish them luck because if they did get famous, you wouldn’t have to fire them or watch them butcher a shallot ever again.  The pass is a carnival, a soap opera, a whirlpool of human drama.

And then every once in awhile, if you’re really lucky, it was all the printer’s fault.  You don’t have to gloat, you don’t have to apologize or defend your boys or tell anybody to straighten out their panties, you just point the finger at the POS.  At least then nobody has to feel bad, we can all just throw up our hands and say, “Fucking POS man, Piece-Of-Shit!”

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Meg Ryan

How much do I charge for that?  I hear it every night.  A customer wants something stupid from the kitchen, and the server wants to know how much it’s going to cost.  It’s a fun little game we play.

So I ask myself a series of questions regarding the request.  Can I do it?  Should I do it?  How big of a pain in the ass is it going to be?  How much will it cost me?  Will the customer be offended when I pass that cost on to them?  Is it going to be any good?  I carefully compile the answers to each of these questions then rank the substitution idea from 1-10 based on it’s stupidity; and that’s how I decide what to charge.  I throw the number out there and watch the server’s reaction.  Sometimes they seem to agree, sometimes they look surprised, occasionally I get the feeling that they are afraid to return to the table with the answer I have issued.

I find it entertaining, though.  Goofy customers want to ignore the thoughtful and reasonable decisions that trained chefs have arrived upon, and goofy waitstaff want to appease their goofy customers.  In my experience, very rarely does a substitution improve upon a dish.  But if I can give a guest what they want under reasonable circumstances, I will do so.

However, a very interesting dilemma may arise from this sort of arrangement.  On rare occasion, when a diner is unhappy enough with the monstrosity that they have ordered, and ignorant enough of the basic precepts of dining out, they attempt to send their creation back to the kitchen.

In ordering a substitution, you have asked the kitchen to create something that they are not familiar with and do not endorse.  To then refuse to offer payment for such an order is to ask the kitchen to accept responsibility for your decision to ignore their advice.  Few acts are more offensive to a good chef.

As annoying as substitutions may be; each time someone wants me to do something stupid to their food, I do have the final word on the subject.  I have the opportunity to decide whether or not to give them what they think they want.  And every so often, I have the great pleasure of being able, in good conscience, to simply say no.

 

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Hunger

I stepped outside for a second.  I needed a chance to catch my breath.  I watched as a dude answered his cell phone in the middle of the street.  “Yeah, you’re about to get me killed answering your call while I’m crossing the street.”

When my phone rigs, I let it ring.  I’m busy.  I’ll call you back when I get a second.  This guy answers his phone while he’s crossing a busy street.  this is the kind of dude that would pick up his phone in the middle of the rush.  “Yeah, you’re about to get me yelled at, hold on, (yeah, I’m three out chef!) no, I probably can’t get you a reservation, how’s Barbara, okay, and the kids, you coming on Tuesday, okay, bring whatever…”

Anyway, he hung up his phone by the time he got to the sidewalk and he could see I was smiling at him.  As he walked by, he looked over and asked me, “you ever know anybody that’s too lazy to get they own food, but doesn’t mind rushing you to go get it for em? ”

I do actually.  I know very many of those people.

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Wild Fennel

Fennel pollen is where my interest in wild plants began.  I was fooling around with the expensive, imported Italian stuff awhile back, and thinking to myself, “hey, this looks like the shit that’s growing in that drainage ditch by my house.”  Well, come to find out, it is the shit that grows in that drainage ditch by my house.

Before we go any further here, I want to mention that eating wild plants can be dangerous and I strongly suggest that you ALWAYS CAREFULLY CONSULT AT LEAST THREE RELIABLE REFERENCES BEFORE CONSUMING ANY WILD PLANT.  There are plenty of common plants which are toxic to humans, and many of them closely resemble plants which are safe to eat.  It can be easy to get confused.

After consulting several reliable references, I felt confident that what was in that drainage ditch was indeed a West Coast cousin of the Mediterranean import.  And so I went out to gather myself a grocery bag full of the stuff. Actually, first I found a patch that wasn’t in a drainage ditch or alongside a highway, and then I started collecting.

Fennel flowers grow in umbels, or small stalks radiating from a larger stalk to form a shape resembling an umbrella turned inside out by the wind. At the tips of the smaller stalks you will find tiny, bright-yellow flowers. In full bloom, the plant looks like an all-yellow grand finale to a fireworks spectacular.  Fennel then, is most easily identified by its flowers.  The leaves of fennel closely resemble those of dill, and its stalk is fibrous and hollow.  The plant also carries a distinct aroma of anise or licorice.

Be aware that poisonous hemlock can closely resemble fennel, especially when it is dry or has lost its flowers. Hemlock has distinctly white flowers, while fennel has yellow flowers.  This makes it easy to identify flowering plants.  However, you should be familiar with identifying hemlock before attempting to gather fennel for human consumption.

Wild fennel is mostly useless as a vegetable, though its shoots and stems are edible according to some sources.  I have only eaten the flowers.  The bulbs- the cultivated variety of which are commonly found in grocery produce sections- tend to rest far deeper below the soil in the wild species than I care to dig, and I’m not sure that they would be palatable anyway.  I stick to gathering just the flowers, which are excellent.  They can be eaten raw or dried and refined to yield a richly flavored pollen.

Once you have identified a wild fennel stand that is far removed from any major roads and sources of contamination, get yourself a paper bag and a decent pair of scissors.

This may not be the best technique, but it works fine for me.  First, smell the stuff; it should smell distinctly of anise.  If it doesn’t smell right, go back to your reference books; there is no sense rushing this type of thing.  Now, make sure it compares clearly and accurately to the descriptions and color photographs you have on hand.  Once you are confident that you have correctly identified a fennel plant, eat some of it.  Just snap off a sprig and taste it.  If it doesn’t taste good, it’s not worth collecting.

When gathering wild fennel, select the brightest umbels, those whose flowers are most visibly caked with pollen.  Blow gently on each flower grouping in order to disperse any insects.  When you have yourself a good, clean umbel, all caked in pollen, grab your scissors and snip the flowers into your paper bag.  Exercise some common sense here and be respectful of the plant and its surroundings.  Don’t trample nearby vegetation or strip a plant of more than half of its flowers.

When you have all of the flowers you need, separate a few choice bunches to eat fresh, then roll your paper bag closed and stash it somewhere dry and warm.  I’ll throw mine by a window, or sometimes on the dashboard of my car, or even out on the deck if it’s not likely to rain for a few days.

After several days of drying, it’s not a bad idea to transfer your harvest to a fresh bag.  I take each flower grouping, look over it and blow it lightly to remove any bugs that I may have missed, then I transfer it to a clean bag.  Collecting fennel pollen can be rather tedious work, but it adds such a unique and distinct note to all kinds of dishes: crudos, pastas, salads, etc., that I find it to be well worth the effort.

After the bag transfer, it should take a few more days (depending on weather), to fully dry out your fennel pollen. When it has dried thoroughly, find yourself a good clean spot, sheltered from wind, and begin the laborious task of separating the dried flowers from their stalks.  I prefer to take my time with this job, being sure to remove all of the large stems and any insects that may have slipped by my earlier scans.  In a pinch, you can also just toss everything in a spice grinder.  The end result is still a pretty awesome ingredient to play with, but you lose some of the texture.  The finished product, properly refined, will bug free, bright yellow, extremely flavorful, and with a light puffy texture, like tiny pieces of popcorn.  I am certainly biased, but I have found the quality of gathered fennel pollen to be unmatched by any product available on the market.

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Lunch Lady

It’s such a simple task; making things taste good.  You figure out what edible products go well together, then you mix them up in interesting ways.  I guess it’s human nature though, to complicate things.

And so, we create a system.  In order to satisfy that natural craving for organization, we label things and apply hierarchies and we compete for rank and reward.

This simple task then, is made complicated.  It is no longer us alone or us and close friends, it becomes us and this culinary world.  And in order to fit our concept of ourselves into the structure and to feel confident and satisfied that we form an integral part of the cast; we unleash our egos.  And our egos explain it to us, how we may not be Thomas Keller or Ferran Adria, but we’re the best at what we do, we’re the undiscovered master of pizza, or yakitori, or roast duck or whatever.  We’re each of us some kitchen bound Luke Skywalker, caught up in the typical childhood fantasy, and once we find our rhythm, somewhere near the beginning of Act III, we’re really going to start kicking some ass.  It’s a pretty big joke though, because it just follows that if you work hard enough, put up with enough crap, and if you get to know the right people, you’ll eventually get a little credit.  But it’s a real long road, the destination is not all it’s cracked up to be, and by the time you get there, you’re too old and exhausted to enjoy it.

It makes me wish sometimes that I was cooking out of a chuck wagon or a zen monastery; making the best of things for hard working people who appreciate it.  It’s nice to cook for people who aren’t thinking about the rules and the technique, people who are simply grateful for a warm meal and your hard work.

I think every one of us young cooks; we all have a little bit of our hearts set on being the next David Chang or Heston Blumenthal.  But unless you can really just cook for fun, unless you can cook because it means something honest to you, you might as well put away the knives.

 

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